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Schizophrenic Nation They're healthy; they're indulgent. They're cynical; they're hopeful. They're having fun; they're working like maniacs. Are today's consumers nuts--or just trying to have it all?

By Gayle Sato Stodder

Opinions expressed by Entrepreneur contributors are their own.

At gourmet takeout haven Urban Epicuria, patrons scarf down awhopping 200 pounds of grilled chicken breasts each week.That's no surprise in fitness-obsessed West Hollywood,California. But Wayne Davis, co-owner of Urban Epicuria along withAlan and Gail Baral, lets us in on a dirty little secret: The beeftenderloin is also a hot seller. And the chocolate cake--customerscan't get enough. "When we were putting this businesstogether, our investors were skeptical [about us selling richpastries and other indulgences]," says Davis. "But I toldthem, `You watch.' People talk about eating healthy--but behindclosed doors, it's another story."

Sometimes it's another story in public, too. Allentown,Pennsylvania, restaurateur Iris Konia packs in the local bonvivants at her Federal Grill & Cigar Bar. According toKonia, public indulgence in cigars, premium martinis and aged Angussteaks is not a sign of nutritional Armageddon. "Times aregood, and people are feeling expansive," says Konia. "Ithink it's a reaction to not [indulging] for so long. Peopleare having fun; that's what we're seeing."

Yet, it's not the kind of orgiastic free-for-all we saw inthe 1980s. Barbara Caplan, a partner at consumer research firmYankelovich Partners, puts it this way: "In the '80s,there was no shame; in the '90s, it's no apologies."Indeed, today's consumers are curious and conflictedcharacters--attracted by luxury but driven by value, knowledgeableabout fitness but susceptible to caloric sins. This is the culturethat spawned Martha (Stewart) by Mail, a service that packages allthe pillowy comforts of gracious living in a no-commitment,hassle-free format.