All That Glitters
Dreaming of starting your own jewelry business? Be prepared--it's more elbow grease than glitz and glamour.
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It's making something glittering and beautiful. It's
creating a sparkling necklace or a pair of earrings. It's
designing and manufacturing jewelry to your heart's
content--while making profits at the same time. Think you can
handle the glamour of running a jewelry business and seeing your
creations adorn the rich and famous? Then prepare for the serious
hard work it will take to get established.
"Sometimes [jewelry entrepreneurs] try to go too big, too
fast," says Ann Barber, director of membership benefits at the
National Craft
Association, a professional trade association in Rochester, New
York, for the arts and crafts industry. "One way to start is
doing craft shows so you can get direct customer feedback."
It's not just about setting up shop with your wares and
expecting people to buy them--it's about researching the styles
people buy, the prices they're willing to pay and what works in
a particular geographic area. A key to success in the jewelry
business? "Make sure your designs are unique," says
Barber, "not something you can buy everywhere."
Once you set yourself apart as a hot jewelry designer,
you'll be ready to approach trendy boutiques to carry your
wares. First, create a catalog of your designs or sell sheets with
your designs and wholesale pricing information. "Send the
packet to the buyer from a particular shop, and then make an
appointment to meet," says Barber. Many buyers have specified
days and times to meet with new jewelry vendors. According to
Barber, "When you go in, have everything ready on [your] order
form so you can speed right through the process."
When Maya Brenner of Maya Brenner Designs in Los Angeles started
designing jewelry part time in 1998, she successfully got the
attention of a boutique owner. While shopping one day in New York
City (her former home) and proudly wearing her creations, Brenner
was spotted by the owner of a trendy boutique, who noticed her
jewelry and ordered some on the spot. After that exposure, Brenner
found a sales rep, and today her designs are in boutiques like Fred
Segal as well as online at www.girlshop.com, pushing sales to about
$200,000 annually.
Brenner, 34, who has even seen her jewelry adorning actresses
Debra Messing, Rebecca Romijn-Stamos and Reese Witherspoon, found
one of her biggest challenges was transitioning from manufacturing
everything herself in the wee hours of the morning to calling for
outside help.
Deciding when to expand depends on your volume, say experts.
"The decision is dependent on your skill level, production
size and cost-effectiveness. If you cannot make your jewelry by
yourself well enough or fast enough, then you need to
outsource," says Cindy Edelstein, founder of the Jeweler's
Resource Bureau, an education and marketing consulting firm for
jewelry designers based in Pelham, New York. "There are
contract shops in many major cities, and many work by mail as well,
so you don't have to physically be there."
In fact, the world of jewelry design is rife with options. In
terms of what's hot, be aware of the fashion trends in your
area. Edelstein notes that upcoming jewelry trends include a return
to yellow gold (a rollback from the all-white gold and diamond
phenomenon) and the addition of lots of color. Beads, stiletto
earrings and layered necklaces are also heating up. But, warns
Edelstein, "Long-term success comes from developing your own
unique style through which you can interpret the ever-changing tide
of trends." Bottom line--if you can dream it, it's a good
bet that someone will wear it.
A Jeweler's Toolbox
Want to find out more about the jewelry industry? Cindy
Edelstein of the jeweler's resource bureau suggests the
following sources for information on the subject:
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