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Los Girasoles.


by Buckley, Tom
Business Mexico • May, 2005 •
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You'd be hard pressed to find a more majestic location for a restaurant. Nestled on the eastern side of the Plaza Tolsa next to the Senate building and in the shadow of the Carlos V "caballito" monument, Los Girasoles has dedicated itself to "rescuing" Mexican high cuisine since it opened in 1994.

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The restaurant is set inside the former Casa de Ejercicios of the colonial-era Antiguo Hospital de San Andres that was built in 1626. Diners can be seated outside in a covered terrace setting on the plaza, inside at booths next to the bar, or upstairs at roomy tables.

The attentive wait staff will first bring the wine list--not a complete selection, but a reasonably priced array of Mexican, Spanish, Chilean and French vinos are available.

Open the oversized menu to the Mientras Espera section and scan the hors d'oeuvres. It's impossible to make a bad choice. The cheese-filled quesadillas azules and the panuchos yucatecos (marinated shredded chicken and sliced onion served atop refried beans spread on a small tortilla) found favor in our dinner party. The chalupas poblanas and the rollitos de berenjena (fried eggplant rolls stuffed with cheese) are also recommended.

The soups and salads are equally palatable. The sopa conde (bean soup) and crema de pistache (pistachio soup with rose petals) were deemed excellent, while the cilantro 1517 was tasty but a bit salty. Untested but recommended is the caldo xochitl, a chicken vegetable concoction dressed with avocado.

The cranberry and mandarin salad (ensalada de arandano y mandarina) featured pear slices, peanut shavings and a vinaigrette dressing. For spinach lovers, the ensalada del museo is just for you--spinach leaves, avocado, panela cheese and toasted chile ancho with the house dressing.

By now, it's time to relax a bit before the main course and I guarantee the indecisive will have trouble choosing from among the fowl, beef and fish menu items. The sabana azteca (pressed, boneless chicken wrapped around spinach and chile poblano smothered in a huitlacoche sauce) and el especial ... con ajonjoli y mole (boneless chicken breast stuffed with banana and rice swimming in mole with a toasted sesame seed topping) both do justice to the notion of Mexican high cuisine. And that's to say nothing of the turkey with tamarind mole.

Also recommended is the chile de la moneda (a large chile ancho stuffed with minced pork and raisins and drizzled with a nut and sweet cream sauce) and the medallones de filete al cacahuate (beef medallions in a spicy peanut sauce). Also available were red snapper (huachinango) and trout dishes, as well as shrimp and salmon tamales.

If you somehow have room for dessert, the sweet tooth in you will be satisfied by the selections of flan, ice cream, chocolate cake and cajeta. Or you can try the pan nahuatl (sweet corn bread with chile poblano strips).

Los Girasoles Plaza Manuel Tolsa

Centro Historico

Tel: 5510-0630, 5510-3281

Open Tue. to Sat. 1300-midnight

Sun. And Mon. 1300-2100

food 9.5 decor 9 service 8 cost (in U.S. Dollars per person) $30


COPYRIGHT 2005 American Chamber of Commerce of Mexico A.C. Reproduced with permission of the copyright holder. Further reproduction or distribution is prohibited without permission.
Copyright 2005, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.
NOTE: All illustrations and photos have been removed from this article.


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