Enjoy fish head curry on banana leaf: when in Little India, do as the Indians do--eat curry and rice with your fingers. Start your meal with papadam, and then enjoy the spicy fish head curry served on fresh banana leaf.

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DINING OFF the banana leaf is probably as environmentally friendly as it is rustic. For the urban dweller, the banana leaf would be an unusual crockery item. For regulars or others who have at least dined once at The Banana Leaf Apolo, using the large leaf as a plate is not a surprise. Perhaps the right way to eat would be with the fingers, but many non-Indian diners choose to use the cutlery. It certainly takes away the hassle of having to worry about removing the curry and masala stains after a satisfying meal, and using fingers to scoop up the food is more complicated than it looks.

The Banana Leaf Apolo has two outlets which are near one another. The older outlet is located at Race Course Road, where there are many Indian restaurants, and the newer and bigger branch is at Serangoon Road. The latter can seat 470 diners, more than three times the size of the former. It flanks the entire length of Little India Arcade facing Tekka Mall.

Established in 1974, the restaurant takes the first half of its name from the banana leaf it serves food on, and the second part of its name from Nasa's Apollo 13, which took off in the same year. The decor at the newer outlet is simple and practical.

Rectangular stone tables with metallic legs and lacquered wooden chairs with curved legs and rattan seats fill the long dining hall. The Indian paintings on the walls add a dash of colour, and the alcoves or room-like sections can be partitioned off to create a private dining area.

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Every newcomer to The Banana Leaf Apolo must try the fish head curry. It is the restaurant's signature dish and has a loyal following. Fish head curry is a truly Singaporean dish served at many Indian restaurants locally, and there are some people who go in search of the best fish head curry.

The restaurant serves this dish to guests from as far as Australia and west Asia, although some European visitors may not be too keen to look into a clay pot of curry with a big fish head and eyes staring up at them.

The smallest portion of the fish head is priced at S$20, and it is a fairly substantial pot. Apart from the fish itself, the pot contains lady's fingers, brinjal, and tomatoes. For two persons with moderate appetite, the small portion is probably more than enough without any other dish.

The medium and large dishes cost S$24 and S$28 respectively. If the curry causes your throat to burn and eyes to water, order a glass of fresh lime juice or a yoghurt-based lassi to take away the sting.

Best taken piping hot, the curry goes well with rice. Unlike the Chinese versions, the gravy is thinner, less hot, and tastes more strongly of spices. There is a hint of a bitter aftertaste which is not usually obvious unless you make it a point to drink the curry on its own. At Banana Leaf Apolo, the spices are specially blended every day to ensure freshness. The entire process of blending spices and curry powder is kept secret, and only the owners know what spices are used.

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Another important part of this dish is the fish head. It has to be fresh, and the meat tender. The Angoli or Red Snapper is chosen because its flesh is softer and more refined than other fish of comparable size. The restaurant which serves up to 250 fish heads a day, gets most of its supply from Indonesia.

While the fish head curry seems to be the most popular South Indian dish at the restaurant, the majority of its guests seem to order more North Indian food. This may not be surprising taking into consideration that 60 per cent of the customers are non-Indians, and therefore, would be less keen on the spicier south Indian cuisine. At the Race Course Road outlet, 80 per cent of the diners are foreign visitors.

The menu features over 100 items. You can get fish and chicken cooked in different spices and ways, mutton, prawns, and a good selection of vegetarian dishes. The experienced chefs from India have no problems turning out dishes from both the north and south, and the food is halal. The restaurant, however, does not have a halal certificate due its sale of alcoholic drinks. The bestselling drink is beer, and the income that beer brings in makes up 40 per cent of the total revenue.

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If fish head is not your preference, you may sample a mix of other South and North Indian dishes. I recommend the chicken, either the Apolo Chicken from the south or the Murg Tikka Masala from the north. It is tender and has a good flavour. The latter is pre-baked in the tandoor and cooked in spiced gravy, served with mint chutney, and has a milder flavour than the former. Both are delicious and affordable.

For two people, the Tandoori Mixed Grill could be an option. It gives variety with fillets of chicken, lamb, pomfret fish, egg, and prawns all marinated in tandoor spice. Alternatively, you may wish to go for Dhum Briyani which is spiced rice and meat cooked and served in a copper pot. The average bill for two is between S$35 and S$40.

This family restaurant has come a long way from its early days. The business enterprise was founded by Mr S Chellapan, who came from India many years back.

From hosting visitors from overseas, he conceived the idea of setting up a restaurant which serves authentic south Indian food with traditional Indian hospitality. Thirty-three years later, the restaurant is still thriving with an extended menu. Warren Muthu, the operations manager, usually based at the newer outlet, says: "True to the spirit of hospitality, we are always open 365 days in a year."

In addition to serving food at its two outlets and a large function hall which seats about 120, the restaurant does external catering. Interestingly but less well known, it conducts educational tours. With its open kitchen concept, the restaurant is built to demonstrate the intricacies of preparing and cooking Indian food. Schools may request to bring their students for such tours.

Jeanie Cheah is a manager with SIM Pte Ltd.

The Banana Leaf Apolo

48 Serangoon Road

#01-32 Little India Arcade,

Singapore

Tel: 6297 1595

Open from 1030 to 2230 hours

Rating: * * * 1/2