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Tea & Coffee Trade Journal: In today's coffee world there
are a number of seminars, trade fairs and conferences. Among these
happenings, are there some events that illycaffe believes they need to
be present for marketing reasons?
Andrea Illy: We take special importance in attending some of these
events, especially specialty coffee meetings where we learn about the
latest trends in consuming and producing countries. Also, the annual
Food Fair in Paris is important for us because we usually have a large
exhibition stand. The bi-annual conferences of the ASIC (Association for
Sciences and Information on Coffee) are also important and as president
of ASIC, I am looking forward to our next meeting in September 2008 in
Campinas, Brazil. We expect to receive more than 400 participants from
35 countries and I am proud that it is being held in Brazil, the
world's largest coffee exporter and producer and second largest
consuming country.
T&C: The bi-annual Triestespresso Expo was impressive in its
growing importance within the Italian and European trade. Do you think
it will attract a broader international audience?
AI: Trieste is known as the city of coffee and the city of
espresso, and the regional government has recently declared Trieste a
new industrial coffee district. This points out Trieste's status as
the most important coffee port on the Mediterranean, with access to
markets in Central and Eastern Europe. The act will bring benefits to
many importers, roasters, brokers and other allied trade interests in
the region.
T&C: In the second ICO World Coffee Conference in September
2005, Dr. Ernesto Illy declared he did not believe in the future of
organic coffees. Do you have the same opinion?
AI: Yes. It has been proven that without restoring some of the
natural or synthetic chemicals necessary for the plants growth, there is
soil depletion affecting the plants health and quality, with lower
yields not always compensated by price premiums. An integrated
agriculture practice obeys environmental considerations to produce a
healthy tree, a quality product for the profit of the farmer. However,
he noted that illycaffe is not totally unfavorable to organic coffees
since some of the world's finest coffees are produced 100%
organically in Ethiopia, which are an essential component for their
espresso blends.
T&C: On a similar subject, what do you think of the
certification seals for coffees confirming conditions of Utz Kapeh, Fair
Trade, Rainforest Alliance, 4C and others?
AI: In his reply, Andrea appeared skeptical of the certification
conditions, which are costly to qualify and not always compensated with
better prices. The profusion of seals has created confusion to
consumers, and consequently some are not willing to pay a price premium.
In his opinion, certification does not relate to quality and
illycaffe's primary focus is to market top quality coffees, which
has been recognized by their customers who will pay a premium for
consistent, uniform quality. This has permitted illycaffe to fund
promotions in places like India to educate and help farmers to upgrade
the quality of their coffees in accordance with basic environmental
conditions. He also noted that in some producing countries like
Ethiopia; where there are more than 150,000 small producers, there is no
possibility for the grower to bank the cost and all the conditions for
certification.
T&C: As an important green coffee buyer, does illycaffe request
certification for some purchases?
AI: No. Certification is not required, illycaffe quality is more
important.
T&C: illycaffe has opened and reported expanding a chain of
typical Italian-style cafeterias called "Espressamente lily"
(Espressly illy). Do you plan to open this project in Brazil and other
countries?
AI: We plan on opening an "Espressamente illy" cafeteria
this year in Sao Paulo as the first of a series to be established in
other capital cities. illycaffe has operations in 140 countries and 50%
of our sales are outside Italy.
T&C: illycaffe recently launched a roasted and ground product
called HYPERESPRESSO, claimed to brew a cup of espresso equal to the
quality and aspect brewed in machines in restaurants and bars. Can you
tell us more about this product?
AI: HYPERESPRESSO was developed after long studies and tests and is
a unit containing all the specific temperature and pressure elements to
brew a new type of patented capsule of espresso coffee with all the
quality and crema of a large machine. It is specifically designed for
medium to low consumption for those who want to enjoy an espresso drink.
T&C: illycaffe is now associated with the Santos Carvalhaes
family and their export "Porto de Santos." Does this mean
there will be a permanent presence of illycaffe staff in Santos or
elsewhere in Brazil?
AI: This question should be answered by Anna, and she replied:
"Since the beginning of our association with the Carvalhaes group,
there has been a constant interaction of traveling by Eduardo Jr. and
Nelson Carvalhaes to Trieste, and myself and other illycaffe executives
to Brazil. We expect this interactivity to continue. Massimo Capoleva
and I will be the illycaffe representatives responsible for the
operations of our partnership. Perhaps, sometime in the future, we will
have a permanent representative in Brazil."
T&C: illycaffe's roasted and ground product found in the
best hotels and restaurants in Brazil is imported from Italy. Do you
have plans like Segafredo's to buy or install a roasting facility
in Brazil in order to be more competitive?
AI: Not so far. Our espresso coffee products are a combination of
high quality coffees from several producing countries including about
60% from Brazil. Unfortunately, Brazil regulations do not permit imports
of green coffee so we would not have all the qualities essential to
produce the consistent flavor and quality of our products.
T&C: Consumer research reports a big increase in Europe of
espresso pod and capsule demand. What percentage of illycaffe's
production is represented by these products and do you expect increases
in other countries like Brazil?
AI: These products we call "porzionato" (pre-dosed) and
are a growing factor in many markets among institutional and domestic
consumers. Their popularity in developing countries like Brazil will
depend on the introduction and availability of the brewing units.
Presently "pre-dosed" products represent about 4% of
illycaffe's sales and they are constantly growing.
T&C: illycaffe has chocolate interests in Italy and Europe. Do
you have plans for a chocolate business in Brazil?
AI: In 2006, illycaffe bought an 80% interest in the traditional
Italian chocolate company Domori S.r.I. This was the first step in our
plans to operate in other high quality food products to compliment our
coffee business. Further acquisitions included Agrimontana, an Italian
leader in top quality jams, jellies and confections and also the French
firm Damann Freres, with international fame for their selection and
distribution of special quality teas. Our plans include researching the
chocolate market in Brazil, but so far we have not found, in the cocoa
producing regions of north Brazil, the quality required for our planned
projects.
T&C: How do you see the future of world coffee consumption with
specific reference to brewing methods (espresso/filter/others) and for
regular, soluble and decal coffees?
AI: I am optimistic about increases in world consumption triggered
by the strong potential among young and old consumers now appreciating
the pleasures of drinking quality espresso coffees and the specialty
coffees available in shops and stores. This trend has stimulated among
more sophisticated consumers a demand similar to wine lovers for gourmet
quality coffees. At the same time the espresso phenomenon has stimulated
among many consumers an appreciation for better quality coffees. The
general upgrading of quality and exposure to all consumer levels of a
better coffee beverage should result in increased world consumption
above present levels and for all coffee products regular, soluble,
espresso and decaf. He also believes there will be increased demand in
the developing Asian markets for soluble coffee and if presented with
good quality should evolve into a demand as happened in the U.K. and
Japan for regular coffees with predictable consumption increases.
With reference to decaf, he noted two problems related to the
industry:
1: Most decaf products don't respond 100% to the consumers
taste preference, which he says is due to roasters using lower qualities
for their decaf product.
2: There is an aversion against the product by some consumers
influenced by reports of health problems resulting from decaffeination
methods.
He believes decaf demand will continue to grow along with world
demand but suggests the industry should unite forces in campaigns like
the Brazilian Roasters Association (ABIC) programs to address the
referred problems and convince roasters to upgrade quality and consumers
of the health benefits of their product.
Observation: This exclusive interview with illycaffe CEO Andrea
Illy and Director Anna Illy Belci took place on the occasion of the
celebration of events commemorating the 16th edition of the illycaffe
Brazil Coffee Quality Awards for Espresso. At press time, we learned of
the passing of Dr. Ernesto Illy. Our condolences to his family. The
coffee industry mourns a great man.
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