Professional assessments: dermatologists and nutritionists evaluate inside-out beauty products.

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The global beauty supplements market was worth $2.1 billion in 2006 and accounts for upward of 8% of total dietary supplement sales, according to Euromonitor International, Chicago, IL. That's not bad for a product segment that only began gaining serious consumer and media attention during the past five years.

Nutrients and foods positioned as "beauty-enhancing" are a newer concept in Western countries. Nutricosmetics are aimed at improving one's outward appearance. Nutraceuticals, on the other hand, are foods, drinks and supplements that are consumed to improve inner health.

To date, demand for nutraceuticals is strongest in Japan, but manufacturers are now looking to introduce them to new markets. Skin care stands to benefit most from the nutraceuticals trend. This is because skin care generally has become a major priority for consumers worldwide at $60.1 billion in 2006, according to Euromonitor International.

Since food helps maintain skin health, it is assumed that supplements also improve appearance. The science behind beauty supplements is in its infancy, although growing rapidly. This article will provide a dermatologist's and a nutritionist's assessment of commercial inside-out products, their cost, claims and their recommendations.

Dr. Amy Newburger, a dermatologist in Scarsdale, NY and the author of Looking Good at Any Age and Dr. Wahida Karmally, the director of nutrition at the Irving Institute for Clinical and Transitional Research at Columbia University, evaluated four inner beauty brands (Table I). Their verdict? Take a multivitamin--Dr.Newburger gets hers at Costco--and eat more fruits and vegetables instead.

In a second study, dietitian Keri Glassman and Marie Claire editors evaluated inside-out beauty products positioned as anti-cellulite or anti-acne (Table II). Every inside-out beauty products promises to enhance the skin. When you review the claims and results shown in Tables I and II, you realize that there is little scientific validation for the idea that dietary supplements can beautify well-nourished healthy people.

"We would all love to get smoother, younger, more elastic skin in seven days just by chugging drinks, eating candy bars or chewing gummi bear vitamins," said Dr. Karmaly. "But skin does not work that way. There is no magic bullet." She added that a diet of whole grains, vegetables, fruits, lean proteins and "plain old water" helps skin stay healthy. It is wise to consult your doctor before taking any supplements because mega-doses of certain vitamins can be unhealthy.

By Navin Geria

SpaDermaceuticals

Navin Geria is vice president of research and development for SpaDermaceuticals, Martinsville, NJ. He has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Pfizer, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and, most recently, LeDerma Consumer Products Laboratories. He has more than 15 U.S. patents. E-mail: tokuho02@optonline.net. Table I: Inner Beauty Product Directions Key Ingredients Dr. Andrew Weil One Hypsizygus for Origins dropper ulmarius, Plantidote daily cordyceps and Mega-Mushroom lion's mane Supplement, mushrooms; $35 ginger, turmeric,

holy basil,

flaxseed oil N.V. Perricone, M.D. One packet Vitamins C, E, Skin and Total Body (eight pills!) B6, B12, EPA & Dietary twice daily DHA, flaxseed Supplements, $130 oil, DMAE,

grape-seed

extract (among

many others) Dr. Brandt One dropper at Extracts of Anti-Oxidant least twice a green and Water Booster, day white tea, $35 to hanguo,

lotus,

grape-seed Borba Skin Six daily Grape-seed Balance Gummi extract, green Boosters, tea, $25 chamomile,

acai, and

vitamins E and B12 Product Claims Pros/Cons Dr. Andrew Weil "Optimize Lemony for Origins skin's defenses flavor, easy to Plantidote against aging." swallow/no Mega-Mushroom hallucinations. Supplement, $35 N.V. Perricone, M.D. "Supports No need to eat Skin and Total Body collagen; helps well/life's too Dietary maintain short Supplements, $130 healthy to take 16

heart and vitamins a day.

vascular function

while nourishing

skin." Dr. Brandt "Fight free Easier than Anti-Oxidant radical damage drinking 15 Water Booster, and maintain cups of green $35 younger looking tea a day/green

skin." tea tastes

better. Borba Skin "Helps the skin Sugar/who can Balance Gummi regenerate its eat just six? Boosters, natural support $25 system ...

while removing

toxins and

improving

clarity of the

epidermis."

Dermatologist Nutritionist Product Verdict Verdict Dr. Andrew Weil "What does "I'd rather for Origins that claim cook the Plantidote mean? Flaxseed mushrooms with Mega-Mushroom oil ginger, turmeric Supplement, help $35 N.V. Perricone, M.D. "I think I could "Spend the Skin and Total Body duplicate this money on fruits Dietary at GNC for and vegetables." Supplements, $130 $10 Dr. Brandt "If you have a "I think you Anti-Oxidant balanced diet should just Water Booster, and are taking drink plain $35 a multivitamin, water."

you're getting

enough antioxidants,

so this

isn't necessary." Borba Skin "[sighs] "Sounds Balance Gummi Just don't eat wonderful, but Boosters, more than 30 a there's nothing $25 day: too much to support

vitamin E the claims."

causes bruising." Table II: Inner Beauty Product Claims Cost Dr. Andrew Weil "Beta-carotene, carotenoids, $38 for a Phtyo Plage and tomato lycopene help 60-day Phytsolaire protect skin from UV damage supply

while stimulating and prolonging

a tan. Plus, popping a pill

before a beach day is easier

than eating loads of carrots (a

Brazillian old wives' tale)." Murad Pure Skin "A combination of nutrients, $42 for a Clarifying including zinc, vitamin A, and 30-day Supplement antioxidants, is scientifically supply

proven to reduce blemishes

and help 55 percent in six

weeks and help keep skin

clear and healthy." Santica "Bladderwrack and polyunsaturated $67.99 for CelluScience fatty acids increase a 30-day Anti-Cellulite metabolism and burn fat to supply

reduce appearance of cellulite Beaut6 Intensive and the circumference of hips,

abdomen, thighs and ankles." Pierre Michel "AC-1 1, a proprietary extract $24 for a RepHair of Uncaria tomentosa, repairs 30-day

damaged DNA in hair cells to supply

reduce dryness, thinning and

breakage while increasing

shine and thickness." Sally Hansen "For longer, stronger, healthier- $12.95 for Nail looking nails, biotin stimulates a 30-day

nail growth, smoothes supply Essentials ridges, and prevents peeling

and breakage. Nail strength is

increased by 25% in as little