Brunch beats lunch at Satellite.(Business Lunch Review)

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OUR RECENT EXPERIENCE AT Satellite Coffee Co. & Cafe confirms, as we suspected, that the brunch offerings trump the lunch menu.

We arrived at Satellite Cafe shortly before 11 a.m., surprised to find the place, which is usually bustling on weekends, to be nearly vacant. That, however, just meant that we were immediately seated at the table of our choice.

A server promptly greeted us and then returned quickly with our drinks.

Because we've been to Satellite before, we were surprised to find that the restaurant now serves dinner and that lunch patrons can order from the dinner menu.

We started with the crab cakes appetizer ($8.95). Although they lacked flavor, the portion was large enough for our party of four. A mustard base dominated the remoulade that accompanied the dish, a flavor not to our liking. One of our party, however, declared that she thoroughly enjoyed it, so it may be a matter of taste.

The lump crab omelet ($13.50), consisting of heaping portions of crab and cream cheese, enlivened by cilantro, was a delight. The combination of crab and cream cheese, seldom used in omelets, was inspired, with the cilantro adding to the nice balance. An entree costing nearly $14 excited our skepticism, but the chef delivered beautifully.

Another diner ordered the Italian chicken sandwich ($11), a mix of well-seasoned chicken, blue cheese and olive oil on thick wedges of Italian bread. The diner, who said the chicken was perfectly cooked, savored the sandwich.

The steak and brie sandwich ($13.50) arrived with thick pieces of New York strip steak and delicious melted brie wedged between slices of Italian bread. The meat wasn't the best cut we've ever had, but New York strip isn't our favorite cut anyway.

The last of our party had the chicken burrito ($10.50), a combination of jasmine rice, black beans, salsa, guacamole and cubes of chicken wrapped in a flour tortilla. Unfortunately, the chicken was scorched, resulting in a disappointment.

A couple of diners in our party ordered the cheese grits as their side dish. The grits, slightly spicy and so delicious, are a must-order.

Although we didn't order them this time around, we know from experience that the huevos rancheros are excellent, as are the banana pancakes--another couple of points in the brunch column.

The service was cordial and our drinks stayed full, which we find to be a good measure of a server's attentiveness. Also, we dined in under an hour.

Because Satellite Cafe was quiet for a weekday lunch--at least as compared with our experience of the livelier weekend brunches--the restaurant wouldn't be a bad place for a business lunch.

We'll return, but mostly for brunch.

Satellite Coffee Co. & Cafe

5923 Kavanaugh Blvd., Little Rock

(501) 663-6336

Cuisine: New American

Dress Code: None

Noise Level: Low

Price Range: $2.50-$15

Credit Cards: All major

Reservations: None

Receipts: $488,849 (May 2008-April 2009)

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