Food allergy multiplication.

Approximately eight percent of children under six are believed to have one or more food allergies. Shopping with Shana illustrated how the percentage multiples as family members, friends, and schoolmates join the circle of people making sure that kids with allergies aren't tempted to eat or drink things that could hurt them.

Shana is slender, well educated, affluent, and a wife, mother, and partner in her husband's part-time business. She shops most at Whole Foods but buys Safeway's Organic O products, meat and poultry at Costco, and some fish at local fish market. Since learning that her three-year-old daughter, Carol, is moderately allergic to eggs, she has become an avid label reader (and food allergy advisor to her large circle of friends).

Even though allergy testing showed that the Carol's egg allergy is moderate and unlikely to trigger any drastic reactions, Shana takes it seriously and avidly avoids eggs as products and/or ingredients. In addition to buying Ener-G brand egg replacers and not buying eggs or anything containing them, she avoids bringing anything containing potential allergy-foods like peanuts and shellfish into her home and says she will continue to do so until Carol is four, when the likelihood of her becoming allergic to other foods goes way down. When Shana makes cupcakes for Carol's pre-nursery class, she makes them gluten free as well as peanut and egg-free so everyone in the class can eat them.

* "We've learned that making stuff that's safe for everyone is the best way to go. All the kids do fine without eggs, gluten, and peanuts. "

Shana rechecks labels on items she buys over and over.

* "You never know when they are going to change ingredients. Formulations change, and being okay last month doesn't mean they are okay now."

In spite of all her caution, she thinks of herself as flexible and willing to compromise on most products.

* "I don't compromise on apples. We eat the skin, so I only buy organic apples. When it comes to bananas that we peel, I buy whatever is the right degree of ripeness."

Her favorite brand of macaroni and cheese is Amy's egg-free organic, but when Whole Foods is out of it, she buys Kraft egg-free whole wheat at Genuardi's.

* "I have a list of priorities, and egg-free is on top right now. The Kraft product is not organic and too processed, but if I didn't make trade-offs, Carol wouldn't eat."

She does buy items with labels that admit that products containing eggs or peanuts are produced on different machinery in the same facility but that good manufacturing practices are followed. On the other hand, if the label acknowledges that products containing eggs or peanut are made on the same machinery as the item she wants, she doesn't buy it.

* "Giving Carol a good start means avoiding allergens, buying organics, whole grains, and natural foods, and minimizing her intake of sugars, sodium, and highly processed foods. I avoid buying traditional kid foods because almost all of them are too sugary. Many of our favorite items disappear from the market. It's especially frustrating when the product is something that Carol loved and can't have any more because it isn't there. But she changes almost as much as the stores. Last month she loved broccoli; this month she won't touch it."

Many of their favorite foods were as unfamiliar to me as Tofutti Cuties (1/2-cup size ice cream sandwiches). I was amused to learn that three-year-old Carol eats kernels of (organic) frozen corn while they are still partially frozen, and shredded mozzarella cheese right out of the bag.

* "I buy the big bags of shredded mozzarella, but have to limit Carol's use. It's great protein and a wonderful snack, but has too much sodium to let her go whole hog. She has almost as much fun spreading it on pizza shells as she does eating it out of hand."

(I wonder how much of the shredded cheese market is driven by kids and how much of a role it plays in childhood obesity. After all, the rise in obesity runs in close parallel with the introduction and spread of shredded cheese.)

Spreading cheese, sauce, and veggies on a pizza sounds like great fun, so I wasn't surprised to learn that Carol likes to do it. I was surprised to learn that she has been dipping for months, anything into anything.

* "Her favorite dips are tomato sauce, hummus, and whipped cream. Whipped cream is her very favorite dessert - with either graham crackers or strawberries as dippers."

Green SuperFood is another of the favorite foods of both mother and daughter. The label reads like a giant vitamin pill with organic flavorings that can be added to milk when a real meal isn't wanted.

* "Carol loves to have her own little package, so I'm open to products that are easy, delicious, natural, and little enough for her. Little packages are important because they are appealing. Except for cheese or ice cream, she doesn't usually eat much at one time. She '11 eat a whole apple if I cut it into tiny slices, but if I cut it into quarters, she '11 just eat one or maybe even part of one."

Kid-sized packages of frozen corn and shredded cheese might find a warm welcome in many households with young children.

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