Bubbles for brunch.
by Coghlan, Timothy
Japan Inc. • March-April, 2008 • Champagne brunches
The economic bubble may have burst long ago in Japan, but bubbles
of a different kind still persist in many venues across Tokyo.
Synonymous with celebration, celebrities, good time and good taste,
champagne is the drink of choice for many occasions. Demand for
champagne worldwide is on the rise and recently experts in the wine
industry have been talking about the current 'wine
revolution,' with prices expected to rise in the coming months.
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To date, champagne brands such as Moet & Chandon and Dom
Perignon have tried to take the taste buds of Japan's drinkers away
from the traditional karakuchi (dry and sour) spirits such as shochu and
sake that the older and more affluent generations grew up on. This
challenge is slowly being eliminated by young consumers who have been
raised on Western cuisine and an over supply of TV shows and magazines
dedicated to modern dining. In general this change in drinking culture
is a blessing for wine brands, however, it has also brought about other
problems. For Charles-Antoine Picart, Brand Director for Dom Perignon in
Japan, one of his main challenges is controlling the brand's image
of creativity, seduction and luxury. For luxury brands, more customers
are not necessarily a sought after thing, as too many regular consumers
have the effect of watering down a brand's perceived status.
Situations such as people drinking directly from the bottle are exactly
the type of behavior brands like Dom Perignon try to avoid, as they aim
for the high-end luxury market that treats those worthy to a classy and
sophisticated 'Hyatt and Ritz-Carlton' type of experience.
To maintain their image and contact with customers, many of the
champagne and wine companies conduct educational dinners at some of the
most expensive hotels around Tokyo. These intimate dinners are usually
held in private function rooms and feature a specialized chef and select
wines chosen by the in-house sommelier. Champagne brands also conduct
their own promotional events throughout the year, often collaborating
with celebrity designers or other luxury brands. Since 2006 the Creative
Director for Dom Perignon has been none other than famous fashion
designer Karl Lagerfeld. He has done special projects with Dom Perignon
Rose and his current campaigns feature European supermodels Eva
Herzigova and Claudia Schiffer in sensual and alluring scenes. Last
November Dom Perignon also collaborated with designer Marc Newson to
introduce a special lime-green ice bucket, which is on display and for
sale in selected high-end establishments around Tokyo.
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Despite the emergence of other Asian economies, there is still no
other connoisseur market like Japan when it comes to luxury dining
establishments that feature prestige wines and scotches. Even in Europe
there may not be a country who's customers are as discerning and
willing to spend as in Japan. To take advantage of this situation, many
of the top hotels in Tokyo put on special champagne brunches every
weekend. The popularity of these brunches is proven by the fact that the
hotels don't go to any great effort to promote their brunches, yet
they are always well attended. Three hotels offering champagne brunches
include the Park Hyatt, the Grand Hyatt and the Ritz-Carlton.
Timothy is a freelance style and design writer and can be contacted
at timkyo@gmail.com
RELATED ARTICLE: The Park Hyatt Shinjuku
Still enjoying the popularity gained from the movie Lost in
Translation, Tokyo's most famous luxury hotel is the Park Hyatt in
Shinjuku. Perched on the 52nd floor of the hotel, the Park Hyatt's
New York Grill restaurant has been offering a Sunday champagne brunch
for 14 years. The Park Hyatt's brunch, which has a friendly
atmosphere (families with children are welcome), is offered on Sundays
from 11:30 to 14:30. For [yen]6,200 guests are privileged to a glass of
Anderson Valley Champagne upon entry and are then free to help
themselves to the appetizer buffet featuring a fantastic array of
seasonal dishes. Guests can then choose a main meal from a selection of
six dishes before heading back to the buffet for dessert.
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Besides the impeccable food and service, another unique aspect of
the New York Grill is that the space is semi-divided into two areas,
granting guests the opportunity of relocating after the main course to
witness the live jazz music and sample coffees, desserts and a
magnificent view of Tokyo from a different angle. The Park Hyatt also
hosts special events on many of the major festivals throughout the year
including Christmas Day and Valentine's Day that have featured
exclusive tie-ins with champagne brands such as Cristal.
RELATED ARTICLE: The Grand Hyatt Roppongi
Belonging to the same group company, the Champagne Brunch at the
Grand Hyatt in Roppongi follows a similar format to that of the Park
Hyatt. Although the Park Hyatt boasts better views, the Grand Hyatt
backs onto Roppongi Hills which lures shoppers into its labyrinth for
sustained spending sprees. In this way, brunch at the Grand Hyatt's
French Kitchen can be the perfect way to unwind and relax after a
concerted morning of reckless consumption. Just be sure to keep at least
[yen]5,800 for brunch. Alternatively, a few laps of Roppongi Hill's
labyrinth could do wonders for your digestion after the sumptuous
brunch.
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The Grand Hyatt's Champagne Brunch is set in a relaxed
atmosphere and available on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from
11:30 to 15:00. Guests can look forward to a glass of Piper-Heidsieck
white champagne and may then choose their main course from a selection,
while appetizers and dessert are served in a buffet style. The Grand
Hyatt also serves Bollinger and Dom Perignon by the glass.
RELATED ARTICLE: The Ritz-Carlton Roppongi
The Ritz-Carlton, nestled in the upper floors of Tokyo Midtown, has
taken the bold move of making Dom Perignon their house champagne, making
it an essential part of the Ritz's brunch experience that runs
between 11:30 and 15:30 on Sundays. Held in the Forty Five restaurant on
the 45th floor, the brunch costs [yen]12,500 and consists of a
four-course meal (guests can choose one dish from each course), coffee
or tea and free flowing Dom Perignon for two hours. Considering Dom
Perignon when sold individually is priced at [yen]36,000 per bottle and
[yen]4,500 by the glass, two hours of free flowing bubbly becomes quite
good value. In February, the Ritz plans to launch a champagne brunch at
a Japanese restaurant.
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